rmiles7721

BBS Status Update

Door games are not currently working. My BBS laptop finally bit the dust so I have moved it to a VM on my main system and unfortunately something broke in the move. Getting this error in my Synchronet logs currently:

!JavaScript \sbbs\exec\load\http.js line 3: ReferenceError: require is not defined

Fuck if I know what that means lol but I’m trying to figure it out. Anyway, I am also in the process of setting it up using Mystic BBS as well. Message boards are still online. I’ll post another update once I figure it out.

 

Litestep is Still a Thing

Wow. Who knew?

One of the very first posts of mine online from back in November ’99 was about Litestep, a replacement desktop shell for Windows that basically emulated a Linux desktop of the time. Apparently it’s still around. You can check out screenshots and download it at some of the links below. Talk about nostalgic. I may have to give it a spin.

http://www.litestep.net/

http://litestep-desktop.deviantart.com/

 

How to Block Hackers On Synchronet

Anyone familiar with having a blog or web site can tell you that spam and getting hacked are a constant thing. Hell, I had to completely redo my web site late last year after getting hacked.

Well, apparently hacking BBSes is still a thing. For the most part all of the ip addresses associated seem to be from eastern countries, China, Korea, etc…

sbbsterminalserver
Terminal Server Window

There are a couple of simple things you can do to cut down on the traffic and false logins and there are several reasons to do so.

First and foremost, if your router is able to block specific incoming addresses, that’s the route to take because it will cut down on traffic on your internal network. Not going to go into that here because until I load DDWRT on my router I don’t have that capability.

There are several settings in Synchronet that will help cut down on the number of folks attempting to log in.

  1. In the Synchronet Control Panel go to File – Properties. That will open the Control Panel Properties Window. Open the Security tab. There’s 4 options here. Delay (milliseconds) is where you can set the time between failed login attempts before a specific IP is locked out. Throttle (milliseconds) is how long to delay successive  logins after a failed attempt. Hack Log Threshold  is how many failed login attempts from a specific IP before it’s marked as  a hack attempt. I keep this set at 3. IP Filter Threshold is how many failed attempts from a specific IP are allowed before it’s marked as a hack. That’s also set at 3 here. These options are all good if you want to automate the process. It’s still going to allow a certain number through and a small amount of network traffic but it’s damn sure better than nothing.
  2. You can also manually block folks as well. In the /sbbs/text directory there are a few pertinent files to look for. One I use constantly is the ip.can. It’s a list of IP addresses, wild cards accepted. Mine is currently up to 175 lines. If you use this and block top-level IPs be aware you can block prospective users as well.
  3. name.can is a list of user names that are blocked or not allowed to be used by new users. Sysop, user*, system*, config* are all good names to be in here.
  4. password and phone.can should be looked at as well.
  5. hosts.can is basically the same as ip.can except allowed host names. It’s not as good as ip.can as the host isn’t always reported BUT it can block multiple IPs that use the same host.

Obviously this isn’t foolproof but it’s a big help. As you can see from the picture above several have been blocked this morning. More than several actually. If you view Failed Login Attempts this will give you a list of failed logins so you don’t have to scroll through the terminal server window. Here’s a small part of the several hundred from this morning I haven’t blocked yet (although now it’s done). I try and go through this when I have time so I can add them to my ip.can

Failed Login Attempts Window
Failed Login Attempts Window

Hopefully this has been a little helpful for someone out there.

Another Fine Independence Day…Brought To You By Darwin

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/07/09/fireworks-blow-off-genitals_n_1660132.html

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2016/07/05/rowdy-radford-fireworks-accident_n_10815288.html

http://www.nydailynews.com/news/national/july-4-fireworks-injuries-america-article-1.2698648

http://www.ketv.com/news/medical-helicopter-dispatched-after-man-injures-hand-in-fireworks-accident/40346802

http://komonews.com/news/local/two-people-lose-hands-in-fireworks-accidents-near-muckleshoot-casion

http://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/brooklyn/woman-injured-fourth-july-fireworks-accident-brooklyn-article-1.2698347

http://www.nydailynews.com/new-york/blast-elie-weisel-funeral-central-park-severs-man-leg-article-1.2697682

http://abc13.com/news/teen-may-be-blinded-after-fireworks-accident/1412816/

http://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/fireworks-accidents-send-at-least-18-people-to-er/

http://www.nbcmiami.com/news/local/Two-Separate-Accidents-Involving-Fireworks-Send-Broward-County-Residents-to-Hospital-Sunday-385436061.html

 

Occupancy and Presence

One of my projects within my smart home is to be able to monitor home occupancy as well as specific room presence. While the two are similar they end up being very different things. Occupancy is pretty basic. For the house itself I currently have three modes. Home, Out and Away. Away means we are on vacation or won’t be back for some time. Occupancy can be triggered by presence in the house, geofencing on our phones, pir sensors in and around the house and network mac addresses detected.

Presence detection is a bit more involved. I am currently using pir sensors as well as activity on certain devices. For instance, if Eventghost detects keyboard use on my PC in the master bedroom it’s a 75% that the Master Bedroom is occupied. I say 75% because I access it remotely on occasion. That’s where the pir in my bedroom comes in, as well as a relatively inexpensive iBeacon I recently purchased to start playing around with. There are IOS and Android applications for detecting iBeacons so with my phone, if it’s in range of the iBeacon, Tasker will send a message to Homeseer that I’m in the bedroom. So if the PIR detects activity in the bedroom AND my PC is in use someone is in the bedroom. If both of the above are true AND my phone has sent a message to Homeseer then it’s a 99% probability that I am there. I also have an Automatic in my car and use it with IFTTT so plan on adding that in the mix as well, increasing that probability.

The reason I have been starting to dabble with occupancy and presence is because I have been slowly adding a couple of different profiles in my home automation. If nobody is home (i.e. we are on vacation) I want certain things to happen. Lights randomly coming on, the temp set a little bit higher, TVs and stereos off, etc. If we are at home then I want a different set of events going on. Lights on at night when there is motion, etc.

This is really an ongoing process but it’s slowly but surely getting done.

Earlier this evening I cam across Dream Green House. There are a lot of really good ideas there for anyone interested in Home Automation, some of which I have been using for years and some of which allow me to clarify a few of the projects I am wanting to work on.

Speaking of projects, here is a current list of things I am in varying stages of:

Replace the LCD and Digitizer on my Nexus 6 that I use on Project Fi. My screen cracked recently and then there was a cat “accident” lol while I was replacing the LCD and the digitizer was ruined. I have a new one arriving Tuesday.

Finish Projector Screen Frame (provided tommorow is not a very long day at work it’ll be finished before tomorrow evening)
Mount Echo on ceiling (I picked up a custom ceiling/wall mount on Etsy a while back and it’s just waiting for me to hang it. While the Amazon Echo has pretty awesome mics mounting it from the ceiling will allow it to pick up even better. I already have all the tools and hardware, just need to get it done)
Set up events to switch basement speakers. Currently I have a two-zone receiver in my basement hooked up to speakers in the basement as well as my back porch. I also have a Global Cache IP2IR down there to control it. Just need to set up a couple of HomeSeer events that will allow me to change zones if someone wants to, for instance, play music through the Chromecast (hooked to one of the inputs on the receiver) through the back porch speakers. I have everything I need for this, just haven’t gotten around to it yet.
Finish occupancy for all phones – mqtt, owntracks, etc. This is more time consuming and intensive because it means multiple events, virtual devices, etc. I will be completing it one person at a time so this one will take some time.
Setup Mystic on RPi 2 or 3 move to basement. Currently the Bulletin Board System I am using is Synchronet. I have it running on a Windows laptop stuck inside a TV cabinet in my bedroom. It’s slowly dying. I plan on using a Raspberry Pi 3 and put it in my basement. I currently have everything I need for that (except time).
Setup (may need new one) Emulator on rpi. I picked up a bunch of different parts for this over a period of time and plan on scrapping the inside of an old OG Xbox and mounting everything in there. I was going to use my RPI 2 for that but ended up using it for an instance of Alexa so the only thing I’m lacking is picking up yet another RPi.
Magic mirror for bathroom. Another soon to happen project that I have most of the parts for. I was originally going to use a Nexus 7 for this (and still may). I have everything I need for this although lately I’ve been toying with the idea of using yet another RPi and the LCD from the laptop that my BBS is currently using.
Fix living room lighting. When they built my house the electricians did a SHIT job. The wires are not obviously standard or marked, making it difficult to find the neutral or traveler. I installed a Zwave threeway in my living room and while I can control the overheads from the MAIN switch (or remotely), the remote switch doesn’t work and I have no idea why. I had to step away from this for a while because I was getting so frustrated. I picked up a wiring book/tutorial thing a while back and I’m going to read it a couple of times prior to tackling this again).
install other z-wave switches. I have three or four Z-wave wall switches that I haven’t installed, including another threeway for the stairs off the foyer. Need to get these mounted.
set up temp controller, redo wiring around house. Several years ago I used a 1-wire network of Dallas/Maxim temp and humidity sensors in every room in my house. The controller (a Midon Design Temp05) died on me about eight years ago and I never replaced it. Most (but not all) of my wiring and sensors are still in place and I picked up a used Temp08 a couple months ago. Going to hook that back up.
Look into hooking up cell phone to Homeseer. I want to be able to use HS to send/receive text messages and phone calls on a GSM phone. Currently I am using email to SMS but if for some reason my Internet connection is down that’s useless. It also is slow at times.
Look into setting up cell phone for BBS. I want to hook up a GSM phone to allow connections to the BBS as well. Currently it’s Telnet or HTML but it would be nice (and nostalgic) to allow dial-up connections again.

Fix my daughter’s RPi Amazon Alexa. I set up Alexa on a Raspberry Pi 2 a few months ago but was not very happy with the end result. Need to redo the entire setup. While this is at the bottom of this specific list it’s actually much higher on my todo list.

Fix Apple Homekit integration. I currently have a homekit bridge running on my HA server but for some reason it’s not working right. I am not all that knowledgable about anything to do with iPhones or iPads so this is a bit of a learning curve. In addition to wanting my oldest daughter to be able to control the lights using Siri, we have an old iPad first generation that I have loaded a touch screen interface on and need to mount in the kitchen. My current plan is to jailbreak it and add Siri to this as well.

Time to skin the cat

So a few weeks ago I cracked the screen on my current Nexus 6. Very slightly cracked. Not even enough to both OCD me. Unfortunately the crack spread last week and then I had two cracks. I decided to replace the screen. It’s tedious but not too difficult if you are careful.

Took me a little while to take the phone apart but I was almost finished and separating the digitizer from the LCD when my big old fat fucking cat decided it would be the perfect time to jump up on the counter scattering all my tools and parts. In the process the digitizer managed to get ruined 🙁

So a $12 repair job now turns into a $150 repair job. Ugh. Luckily I’ve got my old AT&T Phone so I’ll use that until I get the new parts in at some point during the next 7 days. Luckily my contract with AT&T isn’t up yet so I have not switched 100% to Project Fi.

It was good practice. Now I just have to hope I can remember how to put all that stuff back together lol.

Vacation!

I’ll be out of town for the next three days. Unfortunately the BBS has been getting hammered 24/7 by asian hackers for the last month. Nothing that’s an issue other than bandwidth but it is causing my machine to overheat and shut down every couple of days. If you can’t login, or deliver Fido mail that’s what the problem is and it will be down until Sunday night.

I’ll be doing a preliminary update on using MQTT with Homeseer once I get back in town, as well as hooking up Apple Homekit.

Aeon Labs Aeotec Zwave LED Light Bulb

Recently I picked up an Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave LED Light Bulb, Gen5 on sale from Amazon just to check out and compare to my Hue bulbs. I like Zwave as it’s generally easier to control from my HS system and I don’t have to kludge it or control from a 3rd party plugin or through IFTTT which means it’s going to be quicker to respond.

The included directions tell you how to pair it to your controller (and remove if you need to) and that’s pretty much it. There’s a lot of stuff that’s not particularly understandable to any normal human being and once I started nodding off I had to stop reading. Anyway, I paired it with HomeSeer pretty quickly and immediately set out to try and control it. All I could get it to do was turn off and on like any other regular light bulb or smart switch. Rather than being smart and looking around the HomeSeer forums I got pissed off and set up a return to Amazon and then ordered two more from the HomeSeer store. As always, their shipping was pretty quick and so I paired to two new ones (I still had #3 sitting on my desk) and got the same results. At that point I figured out I had to be doing something wrong and started researching.

What they don’t tell you… in the box… or on Amazon… or at the HomeSeer store…  is that you have to set warm and cold white OFF in order to be able to change colors. Oh, that’s obvious. Not. Anyway, now that I know that it’s pretty easy but there should be a “dummies Guide to…” or something for the normal dumbasses like myself.

Here's how the lamp shows up on my HomeSeer devices management page. Notice the white's are turned off.
Here’s how the lamp shows up on my HomeSeer devices management page. Notice the whites are turned off.

The light bulbs themselves are comparable to Hue and using Homeseer events I can control them through my Amazon Echo’s in the house.  They, and the Hue bulbs for that matter, can be controlled by telling Alexa to “turn on the…” but unfortunately you can’t change colors that way. Hue of course has their own app and you can use the color wheel. You can control the Hue bulbs as well as these with an RGB picker on the devices page as well. That’s fine for a geek but what about the wife and kids? For that I had to set up a series of events. One for each color. Then I use an IFTTT trigger so all they have to do is say “Alexa, trigger living room blue” or whatever. The downside of that is that I have to manually set up an event for each color I think they might want. Meh. It’s cool but nothing we could live without.

Here’s what one of them looks like…

IMG_20160613_174844

The lighting is nice. They give off enough brightness to see but not so much glare that it interrupts while watching a movie.

There is really only one thing I truly dislike about the bulbs and it makes it almost impossible to use in most of my lamps. It’s the damned size. These things are fucking HUGE.

IMG_20160613_173647

On the left is a standard old light bulb like you would purchase anywhere. On the right is the Aeon Labs bulb. It’s a good inch and a half taller. Length definitely isn’t everything, at least in this case. It just so happens that my two living room lamps have tall thingamajigs that hold my lamp shades on so it worked out perfectly. I don’t have a single other lamp in the house that the third one will fit in. I thought about putting it in my bathroom over the tub and the glass cover wouldn’t fit. Rather than replace lamps in the house I’ll be buying Hue bulbs next time even though I have to work a little harder to include them in my Home Automation network.

DreamScreen TV

Browsing around Reddit this afternoon I ran across a relatively new product that looks to be pretty neat. It’s called DreamScreen. Basically it’s a series of LEDs that you stick on the back of your TV like you would with a Hue strip. The main difference is that with DreamScreen they include an HDMI splitter. You hook the DreamScreen HDMI controller into it along with your video source (Fire TV, Chromecast, an HDMI cable from your AV receiver, whatever you want) and then run that to your TV. The DreamScreen controller has Bluetooth so you can pair your phone (android or ios) to it and manually control the lights as well as to set it to audio or video mode. It looks like the developers are also working on allowing you to control your Hue lights when it’s in Ambient mode as well.

Since you are running both your source and controller through the splitter, it reacts to the digital content that goes through and judging from the video (and a couple of unboxing videos on Youtube) it reacts fairly quick to changes in lighting on the TV. Here’s a promo video from their web site.

This was a Kickstarter that is over now but you can pre order the LEDs and controller from their web site, linked at the bottom of the post. It’s not terribly expensive, starting at $139 for enough to fit a 32-42″ TV and there are two larger sizes as well. You can also just order replacement or extra LEDs as well. They start at $50 which is comparable to RGB LEDs that you might pick up at Home Depot or Amazon. Yeah, you can get the Milights that are much cheaper but they aren’t specifically made for your TV.

Hoping I can pick up a set after payday, although it might wait a while. Have a roof to replace 🙁 but that’s another story for another day.

Anyway, once I’m finished posting this I’m going to shoot them an email or tweet as I have some questions. It would be nice if there was an api that I could access so as to control them from Homeseer or through MQTT and then back to HS. I haven’t thoroughly looked around their site yet so there very well may be one. At the very least I could always power the LEDs with a Zwave plug for on/off control. I’ll update the post with whatever info that they send me.

DreamScreen

 

 

Wink Hub Updates

I think I may have posted elsewhere that I have a Wink Connected Home Hub. Apparently they are currently beta testing a Vacation mode subscription that’s going to cost $9.99 a month. What the holy hell?

If the Wink hub weren’t only using half it’s sensors, that only work half the time, on a hub that’s only online half the time….I could see paying $9.99 for a year of service. I pay $30.00 a year or so for the premium myhomeseer service. I don’t really need dynamic dns as I have a subdomain already mapped here but it’s nice with the HStouch android client and I can also set up multiple accounts for everyone’s IFTTT accounts in the house.

The “vacation lights” that Wink is supposedly rolling out? Already part of HomeSeer through events with NO INTERNET CONNECTION needed.

If you are a big Wink user I can see where it might be useful though. Let me know if this is something you might use.